South Africa 2006

This blog is to cover my 12 week sabbatical to South Africa. The plan so far is to spend the first eight weeks at Esingeni, just outside Alicedale in the Eastern Cape on a Wildlife and Conservation course. Then the last four weeks will be spent catching up with a few friends and then meandering along the Garden Route from PE to Cape Town

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Location: London, United Kingdom

Graham Racher is a world traveller, photographer, gig goer and IT professional. He has travelled to all the seven continents and captures the natural beauty that he finds there. He also seeks out the diverse wildlife that London, his home city, has to offer to enjoy and document. And when the sun sets he often engages in another of his passions, live music, recording images if he isn't too busy enjoying himself.

Tuesday, May 16, 2006

09/05 to 19/05 - Text

Tuesday 9th May
I went on a 43km bike ride down the mountains at Oudtshoorn and visited the Cango Caves. Hooked up with Rachel (UK), Mike and Natalia (Canada).



Sat round the fire with them in the evening and also got talking to Anna and Susanne (Swiitzerland) and Zen (USA).

Wednesday 10th May
Lazy day, as after horse riding and biking my arse needs a rest. Chatted to Mike and Nat before they left. I spent large part of the afternoon talking to Helen from Kent. In the evening watched films with Helen, Kelly and Pete.

Thursday 11th May
Easy morning. Talked to Petra the owner and Moses their driver who had just resigned. Later I met up with someone who said he was sacked? Chatted to Anna and Susanne

and then caught the shuttle bus with them to George. Anna seemed to be taking the micky out of me but she and Susanne are nice girls and we hugged goodbye. Barry was the BB driver and I got Somerset West where I switched to the shuttle, said high to Christina as we passed in the night again! Arrived and settled in The Stumble Inn in Stellenbosch by 8:45. Sorted out my accomodation for Cape Town and the Baz Bus as I had a feeling I might not be up for it tomorrow night! Ended up chatting to Ben an ex Isralei intelligence officer who had a South African mother, and then to a guy called Bryce who is an overland driver.


Friday 12th May
The wine tour ... and it was me and the overland group! Bryce and Dee his wife and their seven pax. We visited Simonsig in Stellenbosch, Fairview in Paarl, where we also had scrummy goats cheese tasting. Lunch at a farmhouse restaurant. Dieu Donne vineyards in Franschoek. A stop for buying only at a place where they do a very nice Sauvignon Blanc / Chenin Blanc blend for R10 a bottle! I had to buy three?! Stop for a springbok shooter. And the last stop of the day was Delaire back in Stellenbosch. I had a little nap and then went out with the overlanders for dinner at the De Akker pub as they had invited me. I must admit that I did head back to the backpackers with half of them at 9 ish and fell asleep in bed by 9:30 ... my head was pounding!

Saturday 13th May
Recover during day and spend a lot of it writing my travel journal and reading. Around 4 playyed pool with a guy from Zambia and then chatted to locals and Josh behind the bar before catching the shuttle bus at 7:30. I arrived in Cape Town just after 9, I'm staying at The Backpack on New Church St. After being shown to my dorm and eating the sandwiches I had made earlier I went to the bar for a quick one and too see if I knew anyone. Ooops, I stayed for three beers and got chatting to Emma the young lady behind the bar before making myself go to bed at 12:30.

Sunday 14th
Introduced myself to Victoria and Ken, two of my dorm mates and ended up heading out to town with Ken and visited the SA Museum and then had a spot of brunch. During the morning I bumped into Deirdre on Long Street so I asked her what happend to her and Emer and Stellenbosch! (left to right)


Back at The Backpack I caught up with Christina and chatted to her. I ended up joining Deirdre, Emer and Sharon at 3 as they wandered back onto Long Street to meet up with their overlander pals for a shake. Early evening Ken and I headed up to the cable car to Table Mountain only to miss the last car up by 5 minutes ... bugger. Oh well it was nice watching the sun set from there. We spent an hour there and then headed back via a Thai take away to The Backpack. There was a bottle of wine that needed drinking from Stellenbosch! Moved onto the terrace with Deirdre and Sharon and at 8 Emer joined us and we all headed off to Cool Running on Long Street. A nice evening though it was a bit dead, Sunday night perhaps? Below is me and Puku in the pub.



Monday 15th
Up at 7:15 as I had arraqnged to meet Christina in reception at 8 as we were off down to the Waterfront to catch a ferry and visit Robben Island. We couldn't get on the cheaper 9am trip so booked the 10am one and went and had breakfast at a cafe. The Robben Island visit, where Nelsan Mandela spent some time incarcirated, was worth going on. The afternoon was spent wandering round the shops, the plushest Pick 'n' Pay that I've ever seen! Oh and I bought yet more wood carvings! We decided to walk back the 2+ km and went via the Malay quarters where all the houses are painted bright colours ... it reminded me a bit of Brighton actually! Got back and I made a large spag bol for Ken and myself and then I retired to the bar where I found Deirdre and Sharon so talked to them. They left and I got talking to a guy called Diep who I then played pool with. I then talked to a couple of dutch ladies who recognised me from Oudtshoorn; and when they left I started to go but found Deirdre and Sharon back in the bar. Sharon quite happily left Deirdre chatting with me and headed off. Also taked to Emma whilst here, and it was 3:30 am when my head hit the pillow.

Tuesday 16th
Not such an early morning to day, but I still had to be at reception at 10 with packed lunch to meet Deirdre, Sharon, Emer, and Marieke as we planned to go up Table Mountain. I find them having a coffe in the bar as I wonder over toast in hand and mouth, only to find out that they hadn't been to the supermarket yet (I was told they were doiing that at 9) Women?! ;-)
Typical, the weather was not as good today as it had been for the last 2.5 days and though we could see up and down the mountain, you could not see across the top of the mountain. C'est la vie. Pleasant day though. Left to right: Emer, Marike, Sharon, me, Puku



When we got back I had a knap and after cooking some spaghetti and having it with the rest of my sauce I rang home to sort out a few things. Drank some more of the nice wine I had bought in Stellenbosch and did chat for a bit in the bar. Emma and Russel took the mickey when I left at 10:30 though!

Wednesday 17th
Up and packed ready for the BazBus penisula tour. Finally got picked up at 8:30 by Bruce the guide and joined the other 7 pax on the bus. Teh seal island trip was a bit wet and windy but as we headed further south the weather did improve. It was dry and not too bad by the time we got to the penguins in Simon's Town on False Bay. The bike ride through the NP was a bit damp, but by the time we got to Cape Point it was dry, and even sunny at times! We also walked from there to the Cape of Good Hope. After that it was around 6 that I got back to The Backpack and as the kitchen was crowded headed over to the bar where I found Sharon. Had a very nice chicken breast burger and potato wedges. Later I checked my email and checked in online, eek less than 24 hours to go!

Thursday 18th
Ended up getting up at 8 as my three dormies had all got up by then. Had breakfast and paid my bill and booked myself a shuttle car for the airport for 5. Then had the fun job of unpacking and repacking my rucksack and distributing the weight. After that I took my bags to the TV room and settled down to read and write my journal. At 1 I did go and cook myself a very nice tuna, tomato and ruce dish with herbs which the cleaning ladies commented nicely on as the smell wafted around the building! More reading and finally at just before five I took my bags to the reception area and waited for my lift. Just as well I gave myself an extra half hour as the roads were bad as the Metero was on strike today and it took an hour to get there. The bag drop at the airport was quick and easy and I'm glad I redistributed my books as my rucksack came in at 20.5kg, just under BA's 22kg limit. My daysac was definetly over the 6kg limit, but thankfully they didn't ask to weigh it. Quick stop in the duty free shop for two bottles of Amarula and then the flight home.

Friday 19th
Land at Heathrow earlier than scheduled and so I was out by 7:15 and found a man holding a card for Mr Rocher, that was good enough for me and so I went with the driver and was back home in Marina Avenue by 8:15

Monday, May 08, 2006

02/05 to 08/05 - Text

Tuesday 2nd May
Leave Storms River Village and get to Plet, it was raining when I got there. Checkout town, have lunch and even managed to walk along the beach without getting wet later on. Met Jane in Nothando backpackers. As it was looking like rain again tomorrow we decided to team up on using Maryna and Charles' shuttle service the next day.

Wednesday 3rd May
Jane and I went to Monkeyland, Birds of Eden and then to an Elephant Sanctuary where we had a hands on experience. At the bird place we got swamped by over grown budgies who ate my glasses and sucked Jane's hair. Funny pics but too big to load up now. Got Jane to try a Fish Bowl that night! Told Maryna how to make cheats pimms.

Thursday 4th May
It was sunny so it was off to Robberg Penisula. Spent all day there with Jane walking and talking. Good pics of seals that I will load up at some point. Jane was starving as only had cornflakes for breakfast so when we got back we hit the Spar and I then braaied ostrich burgers, boerswurst, made coleslaw, made garlic bread whilst Jane made a salad. Fanstic food and then I had to make cheats pimms for Maryna, Charles and and myself as Maryna had gone out and bought martina rosso especially!

Friday 5th May
Jane was feeling off today so we just sat in the sun in the garden and talked a lot. Joined by Jofrom Oz in the evening.

Saturday 6th May
Made it out of the B/P at 11am and went and sat on the beach. Had picnic lunch. Then to a cafe looking over the beach as the wind was quite strong; Jane had cream scones, I went for brownies and hot chocolate fudge sauce!

Sunday 7th May
Big hugs goodbye to Jane, it was time I got back on my way.
Two hours driving and two hours hanging around for shuttles etc.
When I arrived at the Backpackers Paradise in Oudtshoorn and was unpacking my bags there was a hello from the corner ... I had caught up with Christina!

Monday 8th May
Went horse riding with Christina, first time on a horse in 9 years ... makes a change from camels and donkeys. And I'm not saddle sore yet!

02/05 to 08/05 - Photos

A Flying fish and Puku meet eye to eye

Robberg Peninsula, Plet

Jane and Puku

Jane the domestic goddess ?!?!!

Christina and me horse riding

Yes I went horseriding!

Tuesday, May 02, 2006

21/04 to 01/05 - Photos

Okay some of these are from the tail end of the course


Sunset whislt game capturing with some other students for the day


Yes that is me on the right drinking what is known as a road kill off the bar!


A game drive with Courtney, Val and Alisha


Annelle


Cardi with a Tequila bottle at braai


Me and Annelle at Sardinia bay, Wayne in background


Me and Cardi out for drinks


Doug, Natasha and me at JBay


Gabbie trying to get out of the way of the camera!


Katrina, Me, Sue and Ruth after zipwiring


Feeding of the cats at Born Free
IMG_0707

21/04 to 01/05 - Text

Okay the rest of the course happened, maybe when I get home I might type this part of it up. Now for what came next.

Friday 21st April
Arrive in PE, go out for farewell meal with the other students as Miriam was flying back home the next day.

Saturday 22nd
Chat to Lavuita, one of the receptionists at Lungile Backpackers, a lot. She's a Marine Biologist doing her PHd.

Sunday 23rd
Chat to Cardi, another receptionist, a lot, the one I talked to a lot on the day I stayed here two months ago. I sorted out her CV and helped her apply online for a job with Qatar Airways.

Monday 24th
Got to late lunch with Annelle, Cardi's flatmate and anotehr girl. Then joined them both for the braai they had invited me to that evening. Got a bit wasted.

Tuesday 25th
Went to the restaurant that Cardi works at for a meal, very nice too. Chatted to Raymond the barman whilst waiting for to finish work and then went for a few drinks with her in a couple of bars. As she's in the industry she gets half price cocktails in Giavani's, so that night ended up having a Long Island Iced Tea for 1 poond 70! Got to bed after 2 am

Wednesday 26th
Ended up going out to diner with Christina, an Austrian girl at the backpackers. Got chatting to Jules a girl I was at Shamwari with two years ago, how wierd is that, that she is back too?

Thursday 27th
I went out to lunch with Annelle, Wayne and Terri-Anne (?). In the afternoon Wayne and I chatted whilst Annelle slept over me on the sofa at her place. We then drove to Sardinia Bay for the sunset and a boersworst (sic) for supper. Wayne headed off home and Anelle and I snuggled up on the sofa at her place and watched a film. She thenwent off to meet friends and I went off for a drink at Cardi's restaurant and then went out drinking with her again till around 2 am again.

Friday 28th
Finally caught up with Louisa again whilst having lunch. Doug picked my up around 5:15 and he, Natash and I headed off to JBay. Doug cooked for the three of us and then we hit the bars and clubs in town. By the third one a young lady started to talk to me, Gabbie, and she and her friend Sheryl then joined us in our crawl. By the last club I was even dancing, yes people the first in a long time! Doug and Natasha when back to their room, but stayed dancing with Gabbie and Sheryl, well Gabbie mostly. Around 3 am I think they gave me a lift back and Gabbie put her mobile number in mine.

Saturday 29th
I rang Gabbie in the early afternoon and she rang back an hour later saying she was working at her fathers backpackers, but I was more than welcome to join her, so I did around 3:30 pm. Sheryl turned up from work later and Gabbie offered to cook for all of us. So Sheryl and I headed off to the supermarket and bought the ingredients. Had a really nice pasta meal that I helped Gabbie prepare and loads of chatting. At 11:30 Sheryle gave me a lift back to my backpackers.

Sunday 30th
I get picked up by BazBus and head to Storms River Village
Talk to a few backpackers. It was raining all day long and cold so I was sitting by the fire where I met Katrina German, Ruth (Canadian lawyer on a 18 month placement in Grahamstown, Sue from the States in Grahamstown for a semenster.

Monday 1st May
Talk Sue and Ruth into letting me tag along with them to go zip wiring across a gorge about 8 times. They also invited Katrina along.
Went walking with Katrina in the afternoon round a 5km nature trail. Talked to the girls at reception / bar in the backpackers in the evening.

So that's all for this post folks. I'm hungry!!
I can't believe there are only 2.5 weeks left!!

Graham